Uruguay Wine Master Class

On September 20, 2023, I had the privilege of attending a Master Class on Uruguay wines where we had the opportunity to sample wines from 11 different wineries. I must say, I was thoroughly impressed. It's evident that more and more winemakers in Uruguay are focusing on quality, innovation, and developing their unique styles. Before this class, my knowledge of Uruguay wine was practically non-existent. Compared to the general public, I might have had a slightly above-average awareness due to my daily work covering Latin American business, but wine, in particular, wasn't on my radar.

This master class, sponsored by INAVI, moderated by Peter Granoff MS, and supported by 11 wineries, in partnership with Full Circle New York Solutions,offered me a valuable glimpse into the broader picture.

Background: Uruguay boasts the highest GDP per capita in South America, along with a high literacy rate. It enjoys a stable political environment and is exceptionally business-friendly. High-speed internet, coupled with its smaller size, has allowed Uruguay to achieve 100% georeferencing at the national level. This means that in the future, you'll be able to identify every crop with a unique code, with the ultimate goal of creating a QR code to trace the source.

Wine Production: The primary wine production area, Montevideo, shares a similar latitude with Santiago, Chile, and Mendoza, Argentina. While Uruguay is the 4th largest wine producer in South America, it only covers 6,000 hectares, making it a relatively small producer. Currently, there are around 1,200 registered vineyards and approximately 200 wineries in Uruguay.

Surprisingly, only around 5% of Uruguay's wine production is exported, despite having its first wine law established in 1903. The country's wine industry is relatively new, with a shift towards noble grape varieties occurring since 1982, driven by the creation and enforcement of EU regulations. INAVI, the regulatory authority for Uruguayan wine, was established in 1989.

Here are the two classifications of wine in Uruguay:

1.    VC, or Vino Común:

·         Approximately 80% of the country's wine production falls under this category.

·         Typically packaged in Bag in Box, Tetra Pak, or Glass Demijohns.

·         Common grape varieties used include Black Muscat, Ugni Blanc, and Isabella.

2.    VCP - Vino de Calidad Preferente:

·         Comprises approximately 20% of Uruguay's wine production.

·         This category is gaining importance and recognition, especially in export markets.

·         Responsible for most wine exports beyond South America.

Here are some of my top picks from the tasting:

White Wine:

1. Cerro Chapeu Castel Pujol Folklore Pet Nat 2023 

This wine, made from 80% Trebbiano (Ugni Blanc) and 20% Malvasia, caught my attention. I playfully call it "Kendal wine" because it reminds me of @purplemouthed. It's a floral wine with hints of rose petal and a soapy quality, complemented by White Peach aromas. Truly fascinating.

2. Bouza Riesling 2020 from Pan de Azúcar, Maldonado

Contrary to what one might expect, this Riesling is not petrol-like at all. Instead, it offers a floral and beeswax profile, with high acidity that gives it a refreshing, crispy character, and a nice touch of minerality.

Then, we moved on to exploring Tannat in three different styles. 

Tannat, originally from South West France's Madiran AOC, has thrived in Uruguay for over a century. It's a grape with substantial tannins and full body but lower acidity. Finding the right ripeness is crucial to preserve acidity.

1. Pizzorno Maceración Carbónica Tannat 2023: 

The winemaker used carbonic maceration to soften the tannins and create a unique strawberry bubblegum vibe. Highly innovative!

2. El Capricho Aguara Tannat 2018: 

This wine embodies the high-quality classic style of Tannat that I was looking for. It features notes of black currant, plum, licorice, and a smoky undertone.

3. Alto De La Ballena 85% Tannat and 15% Viognier 2020:

This wine, composed of 85% Tannat and 15% Viognier, was presented by Paula Pivel. It offers a delightful "côte-rôtie" twist with 9 months of American oak aging. The 15% Viognier contributes tangerine, peach, and rose aromas, beautifully balancing the black fruit characteristics of Tannat.

It was an exceptional tasting experience, and these wines truly showcase the diversity and innovation within Uruguay's wine industry.